Showing posts with label potatoes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label potatoes. Show all posts

Monday, January 20, 2014

Plato Dale Sirloin and Curly Purple Potato Fries

Back in July, my husband bought me a new kitchen gadget that allows me to spiral out fruits and vegetables of all sorts, including, as seen here, lush purple potatoes from Plato Dale Farms.

These were quick fried in beautifully rendered tallow from the farm and served with a sirloin that had been cooked to medium on an iron skillet.









The steak was crusted with minced lemon zest and garlic and served with a wilted spinach salad and shitaki mushrooms.

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Picnic Scalloped Potato Caserole



Thinly slice potatoes. Make basmati rice with peas. Shred two chicken breasts and coat in a Korean BBQ then mix with the rice. Blend with vegan mayo. Layer on top of the potatoes.











Coat with a layer of Quark heavily seasoned with salt, powdered garlic, cumin, black pepper, oregano, paprika, sumac, cayenne pepper, and ground coriander. Bake at 425* for 35 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Barley and Beef Stew



4lb roast from Stand Fast Farm
3 large potatoes
4 carrots
4 green onions
4 celery stocks

Everything is layered on top of the roast in a crock pot. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and 1 cup of water or beef or vegetable broth. Set to medium heat and cook for 6 to 8 hours. Serve over barley pearls.

Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Halibut Cream Curry

2 tbls coconut oil                                          1 cup heavy cream
1 onion, minced                                           1 tbls garam masala
2 tbls finely chopped fresh ginger        Salt
4 garlic cloves, minced                        1 lb. halibut fillets, cut into 4-inch pieces
1 tsp cayenne pepper                           Small red potatoes, quartered
1 tsp turmeric                                           A pinch of saffron threads, crumbled
1 tsp ground coriander                         Peas
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt            Basmati rice

In large wok, heat the oil. Add the onion, ginger and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the cayenne, turmeric and coriander and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Whisk in the yogurt, then add the cream, garam masala and saffron and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the sauce until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Add the halibut to the sauce and turn to coat. Cook over moderate heat, turning once, until the fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. 

Pot boil quartered potatoes. Add rice, potatoes, and frozen peas to the wok, turning over gently. Cover for 5 minutes. Serve with a large salad and fruit.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Traditional Scottish Shepherd's Pie

January 25 is traditionally the night Scottish literary and poetry lovers celebrate Burn's Supper. Robert Burn's grace, reportedly given at a supper hosted by the Earl of Selkirk, is usually what's spoken to open the dinner:
Some hae meat and canna eat,
And some wad eat that want it;
But we hae meat, and we can eat,
And sae let the Lord be thankit.
The supper starts with the soup course, such as Scotch beef broth (very salty and peppery), Potato soup (it's like an onion soup with slabs of potatoes floating in it) or Cock-a-Leekie (a chicken and leek broth based soup) is served.
Then guests stand as the haggis is sung in. Last supper I went to we sang "A Man's a Man for A' That" followed by a number of whiskey toasts. By your third sip, if you're not a whiskey drinker, your head gets good an' swimmie. Folk take turn to out do the others with recitations of Burns' work and a lot of liquor is thrown down. We Scots sure can drink (and talk) a leg off a chair! Another traditional dish you'll see at these suppers is a Shepherd's pie. Mine has diced potatoes rather than turnips. The night is finished off with toasts to the host and an oft sloppy round of Auld Lang Syne.

                         

Ground beef, cubed potatoes or turnips (any root vegetable will do), a cubed onion, salt, pepper, peas, a doubly liberal splash of Worcestershire sauce, and if you have it three fingers of dark peat whiskey.


The pie crust must be crisp and flaky. Use the cold lard and butter cut into the dry ingredients technique. Joy of Cooking's recipe is perfect. Do Not use a boxed pie crust!

Evenly spoon in the filling and do not crimp the crust.


Make whipped potatoes. I only use Bob's Red Mill potato flakes. They produce the lightest and fluffiest potatoes I've ever seen! Add pats of butter and sprinkle paprika over top.


Bake at 400* for 25 minutes. Set on a trivet to cool for 20 minutes and then slice with a pie server.













The pie is light and filling. You'll never have a lead belly with this dish!

Hummus and Pakistani Lamb (Mutton) Stew

Peeled and de-seeded cucumbers, tahini, lime juice, strained yogurt, olive oil and chickpeas blended until smooth. Cool and refreshing, this hummus was a perfect accompaniment to the spicy Pakistani stew.
The stew was cubed lamb, diced de-seeded tomatoes, diced onions, yogurt, garlic powder, ginger, cracked peppercorns, whole cloves, black cardamon pods, cinnamon, cumin seeds, crushed coriander seeds, red chilies, salt, oil, and fresh cilantro. Served over basmati rice seasoned with cinnamon sticks, whole cloves, and green cardamon pods along with creamy garlic potatoes and spinach salad with onion cream dressing and naan.

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Damn Potato Eating Squirrels! First June Bugs now Squirrels?!


Do you see this animal to the right? I couldn't get a photo of his cousin doing this very same thing, so I'm posting this so you can get a good sense of what I saw.

Yesterday I had found one slightly exposed and it was beautiful. Deep red, smooth skinned, size of my fist. I tucked it back under the soil with the intention of plucking it and all of the rest of the hidden spuds in the morning.



I stepped outside, all excited to harvest my potatoes. I step out, look over, and see our resident squirrel, the one with the half chewed tail, perched half in half out of the bucket munching away on that gorgeous potato. THAT RAT BASTARD!

Shoo shoo shooed him away and frantically started scooping soil out only to discover that out of three buckets I had six fist sized russets and ten fingering reds. I've been feeding him and his girl friend for the last two months. AAARRRGGGHHH!!!

I Googled potato bucket guards. When I try this again next year he's going to have to learn how to pry a lid off before he'll be able to get at the next harvest.

Monday, October 1, 2012

Scallop Potatoes and Roast Beef, Leek, and Celery Soup


In the morning, start in a crockpot a large roast, surrounded by two large well-rinsed leeks and a whole celery along with it's leaves that have been thinly sliced. Add in two cups of beef or vegetable stock and two cups of water. Leave to cook on the highest setting for no less than six hours.


Pre-heat the oven to 400*. Sliver five to six large. well-scrubbed potatoes. Layer into a pan, drizzling olive oil and adding a bit of salt and pepper between each layer.



In a sauce pan, make a brown butter/flour roux. Add in one tablespoon of Grind a Salt from Simply Organics, one cup of milk, and 1/2  to one cup of mild farmer's cheese (depends on how cheesy you like your scallop).

Blend till smooth and then pour the sauce onto the potatoes. Tent tin foil over the top to prevent over browning. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes.

While the potatoes are baking, pull the roast out and cut in half. Shred one half and cut the other half into 1x1x5 inch pieces. Place the meat back into the soupy broth and stir gently.

When the scalloped potatoes are finished, scoop some into the bottom of a bowl. These French Onion bowls are perfect for this.

Layer some of the shredded meat and vegetables on top and then add in one cup of broth.

Store the larger cuts of meat in a little bit of broth to keep juicy. They make really great sandwiches with spicy brown mustard slathered on top and layered in thick hearty rolls.

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Roast leg of lamb with honeyed figs - Crockpot


6 garlic cloves, halved
flake salt and fresh cracked pepper
2 large sprigs of fresh rosemary
1 tsp paprika
2 tbls olive oil
9 fresh figs, stemmed and chopped 
1 cup red wine 
2 tbls balsamic vinegar 
2 tbls honey


1 boneless leg of lamb (3 1/2 pounds)
Last 1/4 cup of coffee from brew pot


With a small knife, cut 12 small slits in the lamb, pour in olive oil and place 1/2 clove garlic in each slit. Pour on the coffee.




Chop the figs and then drizzle with wine, vinegar and honey. Arrange  on top. Then sprinkle lamb with salt, pepper, and paprika. Set the crockpot on high allow to cook for 6 hours.
Layered over smashed potatoes,
carrots, and celery.
Served with buttered rye bread
from B.Ferrante's Bakery.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Sausage, Potato, and Kale Soup inspired by Olive Garden's “Zuppa Toscana”

1 fist full of kale, bite sized pieces
6 large red potatoes, sliced thin, plus 1 tbls flake salt
1 whole onion, chopped
1 pound minced pork loin or ground Italian sausage
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes and celery salt
1 cup of broth
3 cup of milk plus a splash of heavy cream
1/4 cup salted butter
Fresh oregano, salt and cracked pepper



Prepare the kale and set it aside.

In a medium pot, boil the sliced potatoes until tender, drain and set aside.


In a large pot, brown the ground Italian sausage. Drain as much as the fat as you can (though I usually don't drain my meats unless they look swimming in fat). Stir in the red pepper flakes, oregano, broth. Simmer for 30 minutes. During the last 5 minutes add the butter, stir and then drizzle in the milk.



Give it a taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Add the potatoes, a splash of heavy cream for richness, then stir in the kale. Simmer for another ten minutes, then serve.


Saturday, July 21, 2012

No Mayonnaise Potato Salad - No Eggs!

Two Saturdays ago, while visiting the Bidwell Farmers Market, I stopped at the Lexington Co-op's tent and tried out their Potato Salad.

Potato salad usually makes me very sad. All those delicious potatoes coated in mayonnaise. Damn you allergy! You suck!

But these have nary a dollop of mayo, vegan or egg. And taste divine!
Ingredients:

1 1/2 pounds red-skinned potatoes
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1⁄3 cup olive oil
2 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1/2 cup basil leaves, minced
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons grated Parmesan





Directions:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Wash and chop the potatoes (skin on) into bite-sized chunks, place them in a large bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the salt and pepper. 

Place the potatoes on a sheet pan and roast until cooked through, about 15 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature.

While the potatoes are baking, place the lemon juice, mustard, parmesan cheese and minced garlic together in a bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil to emulsify, then add the fresh basil and mix well. Pour the dressing over the cooled potatoes and mix well. 

I served this with patty pan squash, grilled cauliflower and a blue cheeseburger wrap.

This gets better the following day so I recommend that if you're planning on taking this to a party, prep and refrigerate over night.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Potatoes in a bucket

So following the failed potato crop at the garden, I was hesitant to try again. I had started plants in large rice bags at the same time and they've sat up on the ledge above my planter boxes here at home since April 1st.
 All green and lush and unmolested, I couldn't bring myself to plant them only to have those grubby grubs munch them down to nothing. 


I did some research on container potatoes and saw all sort of ideas, huge heaps of straw 4 by 12 feet, overrunning compost buckets, bags, tires, towers, and pots.
So I asked my husband to make me buckets to get those lovely potatoes going. Using a 3/8" drill bit he put in four to five holes along the bottom edge of the buckets



to allow for good drainage. Then added about 2 inches of gravel, which was then washed until the water ran clear. Then two to three inches of rough compost was layered in the bottom, the best compost has cracked egg shells and coffee grounds...

apparently potatoes love it! Popped the plants in and covered all but one inch of the leaves with a blend of perlite, organic mulch and clean soil.




As the plant grows I'll add soil for every five inches of plant above the soil line, leaving all but one inch exposed. Once the soil reaches the top of the bucket, I'll just let the plant grow over the edge. Regularly watering until the flowers fall off, and then watering once every fourth day. Once the leaves turn pale yellow and wilt I can harvest potatoes.


Saturday, June 2, 2012

White Potato Grubs and the Potato Crop That Isn't

True white grubs are the larvae of May beetles (also called June Beetles) found in the genus Phyllophaga, of which there are over 100 different species. Phyllophaga larvae and other larvae of the family Scarabaeidae are often referred to as "white grubs", including larvae of the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica Newman), annual white grubs (Cyclocephala spp.), and the green June beetle (Cotinis nitida Linnaeus).


May beetles are about 20 mm long. The adults often are yellow to dark reddish-brown, oblong, shining beetles. Some, such as the green June beetle, are more brightly colored.

The Phyllophaga life cycles vary somewhat because some species complete their growth in one year, while others require as much as four years. The common life cycle of the more destructive and abundant of these beetles extends over three years.

The adults mate in the evening and, at dawn, females return to the ground to deposit 15 to 20 eggs, 1 to 8 inches deep in the soil. Since the adults are attracted to trees to feed, they tend to lay most eggs in the higher portions of sod near wooded areas. Eggs hatch about three weeks later into young larvae that feed upon roots and decaying vegetation throughout the summer and, in the autumn, they migrate downward (to a depth of up to 1.5 meters) and remain inactive until the following spring. At this point in the insect's life cycle the greatest amount of damage occurs as the larvae return near the soil surface to feed on the roots of the plants. The next autumn the larvae again migrate deep into the soil to overwinter, returning near the soil surface the following spring (the third spring) to feed on plant roots until they are fully grown in late spring. These grubs then form oval earthen cells and pupation follows. The adult beetles emerge from the pupal stage a few weeks later, but they do not leave the ground. The beetles overwinter, emerging the following year in May or June when feeding, mating, and egg-laying take place.
Although white grubs can be a problem every year, the most serious damage occurs in regular three year cycles. The greatest damage to crops occurs the year after the appearance of the adults. During the years of heavy May beetle infestation, deep-rooted legumes, such as alfalfa or clovers, should be planted. If corn or small grains are present, every effort should be made to keep the field free of grass and weed growth, as this will reduce the number of eggs laid. The year following heavy flights of May beetles, planting corn or potatoes should be avoided in fields that were previously under sod or grass.

Late spring or early autumn plowing destroys many larvae, pupae, and adults in the soil and also exposes the insects to predators, such as birds and skunks. For this cultural practice to be effective, plowing must occur before the grubs migrate below the plow depth. No-tillage or reduced tillage crop management enhances grub populations.

Natural enemies that control these white grubs include parasitic wasps and flies in the genera Tiphia and Myzinum (Hymenoptera: Tiphiidae), and Pelecinus polyturator Drury (Hymenoptera: Pelecinidae), and the fly, Pyrgota undata (Diptera: Pyrgotidae). Also, Cordyceps fungus infects the grubs.

So these grubby little bastard's parents laid them in the ground last fall and left them to pop from their eggs on their own.

When they awoke, they discovered a feast.

A feast of Purple Peruvian Potatoes. Out of the forty to fifty expected potatoes, I salvaged these two.


Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Planting Potatoes

Purple Majesty potatoes are purple inside and out. Like blueberries, these potatoes contain anthocyanidins - a naturally occurring pigment and antioxidant that produces the purple and red color in fruit and vegetables. They contain 235 mg of anthocyanidins per serving with nearly twice the amount found in any other produce item.


Anthocyanidins strengthen the immune system, lower cholesterol and may reduce the risk of heart disease and cancer. Not only are they a certified antioxidant rich vegetable, but they also deliver half the daily requirement of Vitamin C, 750 milligrams of potassium, are high in fiber, iron, and low in calories. 


These potatoes have a buttery flavor and creamy texture, and may be baked, microwaved, roasted, oven-fried, put in salads and more. As with all fresh potatoes, store in a dark, cool area, preferably at 45°F. Do not refrigerate. Always wash thoroughly to remove dirt, being careful not to break the skin.

How to:

Potatoes require full sun to grow. Because they are aggressively rooting plants, they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained but moisture retentive loam. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a pH of 5.8-6.5.

Fortunately, however, potatoes are very adaptable and will usually produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions are less than perfect. Potatoes should be rotated on a 3-year program. This means, you need 3-suitable sites if you want to grow potatoes every year.

Potatoes may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the early spring, but you must use good judgment. Potato plants will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has reached 45 degrees F, generally April 1st is the ideal day to start your first crop. The soil should be evenly moist, but not wet or soggy. If the soil is water logged when you dig, not only will you risk caking the soil, your seed potatoes will probably rot before they even get started. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost-protection for the plants when they are young. This can be a loose covering of straw or a burlap bag. If you pull by June 10th, you can plant a second crop as late as June 15 to harvest during the first week of September.

Seed:
Potatoes are susceptible to several serious diseases. Even though the potatoes you saved from the previous year, or the potatoes you see in the supermarket may appear healthy, they should not be used for your seed unless you have had success in previous years with your potatoes. If so only select the best potatoes to produce your seed.

Planting seed:

A week or two before your planned potato planting date, set your seed potatoes somewhere where they will be exposed to some warmth (between 60 and 70 degrees F.) and lots of light. This will induce them to begin sprouting. A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the larger seed potatoes into "seeds". Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2 to 2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds. Smaller potatoes may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted.

Traditionally potatoes are grown in rows. The potato seeds are planted every 15 in., with the rows spaced 2 1/2 to 3 ft. apart. If space is limited or if you would only like to grow a small crop of potatoes, you may prefer to plant one or two potato mounds. Each 3-4 foot diameter mound can support 6 to 8 potato plants. With either method, the first step is to cultivate and turn the soil one last time before planting, removing any weeds, rocks or debris. This will loosen the soil and allow the plants to become established more quickly. Your potato plants will benefit from the addition of compost, well composted manure, and other organic matter to the soil. Amend the soil below the seed potato where it will feed the roots as they grow.

Planting in rows:

Dig a shallow trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. The spacing at which you place the seed pieces will determine the harvested potato size. For most household uses, you will want to plant your potato seeds 15 inches apart in this trench. If you'd like a quick crop of "baby" potatoes for soups and stews,

you can plant the seeds 4 inches apart, and begin harvesting them as soon as they reach the desired size. Place the potato seeds into the trench (cut side down) and then cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. (Do not fill the trench in completely!) Depending on the soil temperature, the sprouts will begin to emerge in about 2 weeks. At this time add another 3-4 inches of soil.

 Your crop of potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface of the soil. For this reason, when the stems are about 8 inches high, you once again add enough soil to bring the level half way up the stem of the plant. Another hilling will be needed 2-3 weeks later, at which time you again add soil half way up the stem of the plant.





After these initial hillings, it is only necessary to add an inch or two of soil to the hill each week or so, to ensure there is enough soil above the forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed to light. (If the new potatoes are exposed to sunlight while they are developing, they will turn green. This green portion may be toxic!)

 This hilling process is necessary to create sufficient space for the potatoes to develop large tubers, and an abundant crop.
 If you cover up too much of the foliage, you may end up reducing your final crop yield.
Mounding:
The basic procedure for planting potatoes in mounds is the same as for planting in rows.
2010 Potatoes and Carrots









The difference here is that you can grow your crop in a more confined area, or take advantage of an otherwise unused area of the garden. Cultivate and loosen the soil where your potato mound will be. Designate the approximate perimeter of your planting circle (3-4 feet diameter). Space 6-8 potato seeds evenly around your circle, and cover with the initial 4 inches of soil. Continue the same procedures as you would for planting in rows. 


Potatoes in a bag:

If you have no established garden plot, or if there just isn't enough available space within your garden, you can still grow. Potatoes thrive in the warm environment of a soil filled burlap bag! 

Pick a spot where you can lean your bag which is secure, won't tip and is in full sun most of the day. Roll the bag down to 5 inches and fill the inside of the bag with 4 inches of soil and then set 3 to 4 potato seeds into the soil. Add enough soil to cover the seed by about two or three inches. 
When the new plants are eight inches tall, roll up the bag edge and add soil to cover the leaves, as in the first level. Repeat the process until about 3 inches from the edge of the bag's top. By doing this, the existing stalk reverts to a root and the plant is forced to grow upward to once again find sunlight. By raising the soil level this way the plant is able to continue growing without suffocation, and at the same time you are creating a 24 to 30 inch tap root from which many more lateral roots can develop. Each lateral root can then produce additional potatoes. When you water, be sure that the soil is thoroughly moistened all the way to the base of the bag. Allow the rest of the foliage to spill over the edge of the bag and once it  stops flowering, stop watering the week after the flowers die. The leaves will yellow and die and after 80 days you can start to pull potatoes.

Watering:

For the maximum crop, keep your potato vines well watered throughout the summer, but especially during the period when they are in flower, and immediately thereafter. This is the time when the plant is creating the new tubers, and water is critical. Water early in the day so that the foliage has time to dry completely before evening because wet foliage can make your plants more susceptible to several potato diseases. When the leaves turn yellow and dies back, discontinue watering to allow the tubers to mature for a week or two before harvesting.

Once the vines have passed the critical watering stage while in flower, they will tolerate a certain amount of drought. According to some studies, non-irrigated potatoes are less watery and more healthful. However, potato plants which are not watered regularly will produce a much smaller crop so water every other day even if it rains, unless of course the rains are heavy. Ultimately you need to use some judgement when it comes to watering. Too little, too few potatoes. Too much, grainy mealy potatoes that rot quickly.

Harvest:

Your may begin to harvest your potatoes 2 to 3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. At this time you will only find baby potatoes if you were to dig up a plant. Potatoes can be harvested any time after this, by gently loosening the soil, reaching under the plant, and removing the largest tubers, leaving the smaller ones to continue growing.

If you want late potatoes for storage, wait 2 to 3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully begin digging a foot or so outside of the row or mound. Remove the potatoes as you find them. Be careful not to bruise or cut the tubers with your garden fork! If the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay on the soil surface, unwashed, for 2 to 3 days so they can dry. If the ground is wet or rain is expected, move the harvest to a cool, dry area like a pantry, garage or basement for the drying period. This drying step is necessary to mature the potato skin, which will protect the potato during storage.

If, by the end of September, the plants have not begun to die back, all of the foliage should be cut off to ensure your crop has ample time to mature before winter.

Store your undamaged potatoes in a well-ventilated, dark, cool location. Properly dried and stored potatoes should keep well for three to six months. Don't grow potatoes in the same soil more than once in three years.